Our last cruise of the 2008/2009 season is already upon us – can we match up to the experiences of the last two cruises? But of course, and why not – after all where are we going? Back to Antarctica, the land of ice, penguins, un-predictable weather and evocative landscapes. Antarctica is such a draw to those who have already tasted its awesome character.

We left Ushuaia late on the Sunday evening and found ourselves heading south in the Drake the following morning (Monday 9th) – the Drake was kind; wet in the morning, turning into a beautiful day later. Importantly it was not at all rough, allowing those that had just joined us to gain their sea-legs. Tuesday 10th started off with a lot of fog in the morning. It was quite damp though much of the day, but it certainly didn’t dampen the afternoon landing at Hannah Point – what a fabulous place and so much Antarctic Hairgrass. It was almost amusing seeing the young bull Elephant Seal coming up the route that we had taken through the rookery – he certainly didn’t worry about scattering penguins…. I was fascinated by the Snowy Sheathbill ‘mowing’ some of the grass, consuming bits and scattering the rest. The family of Macaroni Penguins was, very much, a bonus with most people seeing them. Bird-wise a good day with a Soft-plumaged Petrel being a surprise late in the morning, and just before we left the Drake heading into the South Shetlands – that seemed quite a long way south for this species. It was definitely one of those ‘great days’ in Antarctica. Wednesday 11th was another memorable day. We landed in the morning in Cuverville Island (certainly my first landing on the island, though I have visited by way of Zodiac cruising) and enjoyed the largest known Gentoo Penguin rookery in Antarctica. We then headed over to Neko Harbour for our second landing of the day. The weather was stunning and I think everyone was spellbound by the amount of carving taking place on the glaciers around the bay – it was breathtaking – the light on the brash ice, the pushing through bits of ice to get to land, the constant cracks and thundering sounds in the ice - one particular carving event created quite a tidal wave, throwing up bits of ice and sea onto the beach in the most dramatic fashion – talk about us all having to scatter upwards…. I couldn’t help enjoying the Gentoo Penguins shooting out of the water in the most impressive style. What an afternoon and one of those sites that it was really very hard to leave. Thursday 12th found us parked outside Port Lockroy – the sun blazed, no wind, blue sky, breath-taking scenery and amazing reflections in the water…….. And the day only got better. Lemaire Channel at lunch-time was ‘stunning’…. totally and utterly ‘stunning’…. We anchored just south of the Lemaire adjacent to Pleneau Island and enjoyed Zodiac cruising through and around the ‘ice graveyard’ – the Leopard Seals on ice flows where everywhere – young males and at least eight in the locality…. By the time we had got back up the Lemaire again the count of Leopard Seals in that area was in excess of twenty – what a turn round from earlier cruises this year. Friday 13th found us back in the South Shetlands where we landed at Barrientos Island – much dryer than our landing at this location last year. The young Gentoo Penguins were fantastic (so amusing the way they wanted to sleep in the boot cleaning utensils) – there were quite a few moulting Chinstraps, but we were able to keep well clear of those. What a great landing to finish off a quite superb Antarctic Season. I was intrigued to be able to read a ring on one of the Skua adults (from a number of photographs) – mind you couldn’t read the Country responsible for that particular ringing scheme (will try to get to the bottom of that when I get back to Ireland). After the landing we headed for the Drake.

Saturday 14th we found ourselves crossing the Polar Front (Convergence) in the early morning – lots of mist, rain and fog about – though the day brightened up and the Drake remained particularly kind. Star birds had to be the Wandering Albatrosses, both Northern and Southern Royals and two Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses – well there can be no complaints about the Albatross showings this season – some magical moments to say the least….

Sunday 15th we were in the Beagle Channel for much of the day – passing Ushuaia in the morning, the superb mountainous vista of the Andes with lovely displays of Patagonian Southern Beech woods, hanging glaciers and an array of interesting peaks, rocks and sights to enjoy – the weather remained kind. Monday 16th we arrived in Punta Arenas – there were various outings to a number of sites – Stars were the Lesser Rea, Andean Condor and Guanaco sightings – that evening we were heading further into the Fjords. Tuesday 17th we were cruising the Chilean Fjords – a stop at Skua Glacier to enjoy the superb exodus of ice from the ice fields above. Wednesday 18th we traversed the English Narrows just after dawn – great to get the welcome from the Peale’s Dolphins – a stop at the spectacular Tempano Glacier happened in the afternoon – Fjords cruising is relaxing and impressive. We were visited by Green-backed Firecrowns on a couple of occasions (fascinating to see these wee hummingbirds ‘buzzing’ the back deck) – and on Thursday 19th over six visits of these super birds – much more wildlife noted on this day – seemed to be quite a change with more human habitation (passed Puerto Aguirre during the day and a lot of fish farms – these, apparently, mainly farming Salmon) and many more Penguins and Shags in evidence. Noticeable also the number of gull species and changes in the fauna lists. On Friday 20th we were in Puerto Montt for the morning. Weather particularly good early on, though clouded over in the middle of the day – some good wildlife watching with a couple of coaches heading to the National Park. Excellent views of both Volcanos – Osorno (2600metres) and Calbuco (2000 metres). In the afternoon we sailed for Valparaiso – the fist part of the cruising out through the islands, spectacular and very rich in wildlife. As we headed out to sea, those on the back deck were rewarded with the most spectacular views of 8+ Blue Whales – What a way to draw the season to a close…… Just Magical and so many!!!!! - Our last day, Saturday 21st was at sea – beautiful day, sunny, warm and little wind. Plenty of new birds for the wildlife list – I really felt that we had Elliott’s Storm Petrel on a few occasions, but the light was strong and I wasn’t convinced enough to add to the wildlife list – maybe next time…. The White-faced Storm Petrel was found on deck in the early morning – certainly an unusual and unexpected find. The bird flew successfully, and very purposefully, when released at 0845hrs. Apparently this species has only recently been confirmed as being found in Chilean waters – well our record adds to that fact.

Monday 9th February 2009. At sea on The Drake Southbound.
BIRDS: Macaroni Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Northern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; Soft-plumaged Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Cape Petrel; Thin-billed Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Common Diving Petrel. MAMMAL: None seen.

Tuesday 10th February 2009. Hannah Point, Livingston Island.
BIRDS: Macaroni Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Chinstrap Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Northern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel (+ white morph); Sooty Shearwater; Soft-plumaged Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Cape Petrel; Antarctic Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Shag; Brown Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Humpback Whale; Elephant Seal; Antarctic Fur Seal. OTHER: Springtails; Mites.

Wednesday 11th February 2009. Cuverville Island and Neko Harbour.
BIRDS: Gentoo Penguin; Chinstrap Penguin; Adelie Penguin; Grey-headed Albatross; Southern Fulmer; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Shag; Brown Skua; South Polar Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Fin Whale; Humpback Whale; Minke Whale; Elephant Seal; Crabeater Seal; Weddell Seal; Leopard Seal; Antarctic Fur Seal. OTHER: Springtails; Mites.

Thursday 12th February 2009. Port Lockroy, Lemaire Channel and Pleneau Island. Cruise Furthest South: S65 05 803 W064 03 599
BIRDS: Gentoo Penguin; Chinstrap Penguin; Adelie Penguin; Cape Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Shag; Brown Skua; South Polar Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Humpback Whale; Minke Whale; Crabeater Seal; Weddell Seal; Leopard Seal; Antarctic Fur Seal.

Friday 13th February 2009. Barrientos Island
BIRDS: Gentoo Penguin; Chinstrap Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel (+ white morph); Southern Fulmer; Cape Petrel; Antarctic Prion; Black-bellied Storm Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Shag; Brown Skua; South Polar Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMAL: Humpback Whale; Minke Whale; Killer Whale; Elephant Seal; Antarctic Fur Seal. OTHER: Mites.

Saturday 14th February 2009. At sea on The Drake Northbound.
BIRDS: Wandering Albatross; Northern Royal Albatross; Southern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross; Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Cape Petrel; Thin-billed Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Common Diving Petrel. Chilean Skua. MAMMAL: None seen today.

Sunday 15th February 2009. Beagle Channel.
BIRDS: Magellanic Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Magellanic Diving Petrel; Imperial Shag; Rock Shag; Upland Goose; Kelp Goose; Patagonian Flightless Steamer Duck; Chilean Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; South American Tern; Blackish Cinclodes. MAMMAL: South American Sea Lion; South American Fur Seal.

Monday 16th February 2009. Puenta Arenas
BIRDS: Magellanic Penguin; Imperial Shag; Rock Shag; Olivaceous Cormorant; Chilean Flamingo; Lesser (Darwin’s) Rhea; Black-necked Swan; Upland Goose; Ashy-headed Goose; Crested Duck; Chiloe Wigeon; Patagonian Flightless Steamer Duck; Variable Hawk; Southern Caracara; Andean Condor; American Kestrel; Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle; Cinereous Harrier; Turkey Vulture; Southern Black-backed Gull; Dolphin Gull; Brown-hooded Gull; Southern Lapwing; Feral Pigeon; Chilean Swallow; Correndera Pipit; Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant; Austral Thrush; Long-tailed Meadow-lark; White-crested Elaenia; Grey-flanked Cinclodes; Black-chinned Siskin; Rufous-collared Sparrow. MAMMALS: Guanaco.

Tuesday 17th February 2009. Chilean Fjords and Skua Glacier.
BIRDS: Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Magellanic Diving Petrel; Imperial Shag; Kelp Goose; Patagonian Flightless Steamer Duck; Turkey Vulture; Chilean Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; South American Tern. MAMMALS: Chilean Dolphin; South American Fur Seal.

Wednesday 18th February 2009. Chilean Fjords, English Narrows and Tempano Glacier.
BIRDS: Magellanic Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Imperial Shag; Olivaceous Cormorant; Patagonian Flightless Steamer Duck; Chilean Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull + chick; Brown-hooded Gull; South American Tern; Chilean Swallow; Green-backed Firecrown. MAMMALS: Peale’s Dolphin; South American Fur Seal. OTHER: Fish sp..

Thursday 19th February 2009. Chilean Fjords - Third Day.
BIRDS: Magellanic Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Snowy Egret; Imperial Shag; Olivaceous Cormorant; Guanay Shag; Patagonian Flightless Steamer Duck; Turkey Vulture; Chilean Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Brown-hooded Gull; Franklin’s Gull; Chilean Swallow; Green-backed Firecrown (5+). MAMMALS: Dolphin sp.; South American Fur Seal.

Friday 20th February 2009. Puerto Montt.
BIRDS: Magellanic Penguin; Northern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Sooty Shearwater; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Peruvian Pelican; Black-faced Ibis; Black-crowned Night Heron; Snowy Egret; Imperial Shag; Rock Shag; Olivaceous Cormorant; Turkey Vulture; Black Vulture; Harris’s Hawk; Chimango Caracara; Southern Lapwing; Chilean Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Brown-hooded Gull; Franklin’s Gull; South American Tern; Feral Pigeon; Chilean Flicker; Chucao Tapaculo(H); Austral Thrush; Chilean Swallow; Blue and White Swallow; Thorn-tailed Rayadito; Dark-bellied Cinclodes; White-crested Elaenia; Green-backed Firecrown. MAMMALS: Blue Whale (8); Fin Whale; Chilean Dolphin; Peale’s Dolphin; South American Sea Lion; South American Fur Seal. OTHER: Fiery Skipper Butterfly; Small White Butterfly; Lizard sp.
Overnight (found pm): Thursday 19th to Friday 20th February 2009. Wilson’s Storm Petrel Wing 134mm Weight 31grams.

Saturday 21st February 2009. At Sea to Valparaiso.
BIRDS: Humboldt Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Northern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Salvin’s Albatross; Giant Petrel; Stejneger’s Petrel; Juan Fernandez Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; Pink-footed Shearwater; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; White-faced Storm Petrel; American Kestrel (14 miles from land); Red Phalarope. MAMMALS: Dolphin sp..
Overnight: Friday 21st to Saturday 22nd February 2009. White-faced Storm Petrel Wing 148mm Weight 45grams.