For the February 2008 South American Adventure, M.V. Saga Ruby had included in its itinerary a three week Antarctica and Chilean Fjords element. Wildlife sightings were noted from Rio de Janeiro and are included below. However the full cruise list of species, provided on the ship, at the end of the cruise, only covered from Sunday 10th as some passengers did not board the ship until our arrival in Buenos Aires. This, the third Antarctic cruise of the season (first and second being on M.V. Spirit of Adventure – shown in ‘Previous Entries’), was every bit as exciting as the previous cruises, though of course very different from other visits to the Ice Continent. I think this has to be one of the attractions of visiting this cold, awesome, savage, untameable, austere and beautiful part of the world. There is just ‘no way’ one can take anything for granted – the wind, ice and the raw elements cannot be ‘conquered’; they can only be respected.

But to the cruise which, of course, is the last one of the season for Annie and I. Having had an amazing break in Chile between cruises (another story and for those staying in or near Valparaiso – you just have to stay in the Robinson Crusoe Inn – check out my review on Trip Adviser dot com - http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g294306-d308373-r13213527-Robinson_Crusoe_Inn-Valparaiso.html ), Annie and I headed over to Rio do Janeiro where we joined M.V. Saga Ruby. It was late when we arrived (and hot) so nothing really to report on the wildlife front. However the following morning (Tuesday 5th February) it was cloudy but hot and I remained on board to get my bearings – Rio and its corrupt and dangerous reputation really would not appeal to me as a visitor location. The display of Magnificent Frigate birds in Rio’s harbour however, was, to say the least, fantastic, they were just everywhere. I also enjoyed the odd Brown Booby flying by – not such close views, but fun to note. The following morning, Wednesday 6th, we were at sea. Star species has to be Spectacled Petrels – Five. They are just such special birds and it really is a privilege to be able to enjoy this bird species currently making a come - back from the threats of extinction. There were excellent numbers of Cory’s Shearwaters also noted during the day and I really enjoyed the flocks of Flying Fish seen – they were not present after this day as we headed to cooler waters. On Thursday 7th two more Spectacled Petrels and a Herald Petrel – shame that they are not seen after we head south from Buenos Aires. The 26 Yellow-nosed Albatrosses were an additional bonus for the day.  During the day we had what appeared to be a juvenile Austral Thrush arrive on board (S33 54 W052 40) – the bird was not that accommodating as it kept hiding up near the top of the ship in an inaccessible area (definitely a juvenile thrush but could not rule out Rufous-bellied or Creamy-bellied Thrush). During the afternoon (1450hrs. to 1540hrs.) we passed through this amazing weather pattern: basically we sailed through these seven bands of cumulous cloud. We passed under each band of cloud which, for want of a better description, appeared like a huge sausage stretching from horizon to horizon (port to starboard – that’s left to right for those that muddle these nautical terms – I know!! the clouds ran the other way as well). It was bright sunshine between bands, warm and little wind – as we went under these bands the wind increased rapidly and then disappeared again as we came back into sunshine. This pattern happened over 16 nautical miles and could possibly have been influenced by the joining of the Falklands and Brazilian currents – they are known to be meeting in this area. On Friday 8th we sailed up the River Plate and into Buenos Aires where we were joined by the rest of the Antarctic Expedition Team. Birdwise the highlight of the day was a Spotted Sandpiper following the ship for a short while – after all the River Plate is always, to say the least, dull – a very large river, very brown waters and little bird life seen when sailing down the middle.

We sailed from Buenos Aires on the evening of Saturday 9th and spent Sunday 10th in Montevideo – Elegant Tern was a lovely surprise as we left Montevideo. Monday 11th we were at sea heading for the Falkland Islands. Highlight again had to be the Spectacled Petrel (enough said above) and the quite excellent views of a Southern Right Whale that came up right beside the rear of the ship on the port side. During the evening I noted the first of a series of fishing buoys that we sailed beside for over an hour. First buoy was noted at 1338hrs. and then the line was marked at very regular intervals (with some buoys having radio aerial’s attached). At 1949hrs. we passed the ship (Sealand Fenix) still laying out the line – Long Line fishing!! – yes this line was over 20 miles in length (we were steaming at over 18 knots). Position of the line in the Southern Ocean? Well it was 330 nautical miles from the nearest land and I noted the position at 1920hrs. as S41 57 W056 09. We were at sea on Tuesday 12th – plenty of Soft-plumaged and Atlantic Petrels to enjoy - and arrived off Stanley, Falkland Islands first light on Wednesday 13th. Of course the wildlife list blossomed from the Stanley interlude with various records coming in from the different tour activities. As we left the Falkland’s, D91 - HMS Nottingham steamed past our ship – seems to be almost a tradition as we had a similar experience with M.V. Spirit of Adventure on the ‘Christmas in Antarctica’ voyage (see Previous Entries). It was Happy Valentine, at sea, to all on board on Thursday 14th with plenty of good bird watching from the back deck – the weather forecast was not promising (potential of wind) for the following day so our visit to Half Moon Island was changed (Half Moon Island is a really exposed location) and the ship headed for the Antarctic Sound – It was a great decision as the wind would have spoilt it for all and the cruising of the Antarctic Sound was ‘fantastic’. Lots of cetacean, seal and bird species seen during the day and as for the ice – just magic stuff. Brown Bluff and Hope Bay visited, then over the Bransfield Straight and on to Deception Island to cap off an excellent day’s cruising. Star birds had to be the Snow Petrels seen. On Saturday 16th we landed at Gonzalez Videla Station at Paradise Harbour. Lots of Gentoo Penguin chicks about and, of course, plenty of Snowy Sheathbills to amuse watch close to. The Leucistic Gentoo had abandoned its nest and the only individual present was on the far side of the bay. There was a lot of ice present in the bay which gave a lovely background to those photographing the penguins (amusing watching the moulting penguins catching snow flakes as well as drinking water drops dripping from the ice) – a pathway through brash ice – definitely picturesque. During the evening lots of people were able to enjoy really close up views of a Leopard Seal on an ice flow as it floated slowly past the ship on the starboard side. Another Snow Petrel sighting – they are such beautiful birds – we were definitely spoilt on this cruise for the numbers of Snow Petrels seen. On Sunday 17th we headed down and through the Lemaire Channel – the fog was so disappointing – yes we got through, but it was a shame that all the tops were not visible. We stopped at Petermann Island, but sadly there was no suitable area for a landing, so we headed back to Dorian Bay, Wiencke Island and made a landing there - everyone loved it. The area is open with plenty to see – the huts, Gentoo Penguins and a couple of Fur Seals close to. Earlier that morning there had been a Wilson’s Storm Petrel on deck - it made its own way back to the sea before I arrived on the scene – obviously fine, which is what it is all about. Monday 18th found us at Jougla Point – what a beautiful start to the day; glorious sunshine and positively warm on shore. However, the weather changed and the landing had to be abandoned. Almost all the passengers made it, but sadly a few didn’t – this is Antarctica though and I know that one has to grab those opportunities – we certainly succeeded in getting most out into the rookery. Interesting to see the leucistic Gentoo chick – the moult round the face looked as though there was a chance that the feathers just may/might moult into the normal black colour expected – does this happen? Or are the leucistic birds doomed to their unusual blonde colour throughout their lives (it is a recessive gene – surely that would influence through the life of the bird - would have been interesting to follow this chick’s progress through the moult period). The Gentoo chicks were larger than those at Paradise Bay and very inquisitive. One only had to stand for five minutes and there would be a couple of chicks pulling at ones jacket and boots – one chick even tried to eat my watch – fastened to my zip puller. So our last visit of the season to the Antarctic Continent was complete – by Tuesday 19th we were in The Drake – one lucky observer saw a Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and the Soft-plumaged petrel was definitely quite a surprise. There was plenty of wind about with a Force 7 developing into a Force 9 by the evening, but the number of birds and bird species was rather disappointing considering the potential.

Wednesday 20th February found us in the Beagle Channel at sunrise and we were soon docked in Ushuaia. A group of us headed to the National Park for the morning and I think it must have been one of the most successful visits that I have ever had at this location. Star sightings had to be the Magellanic Woodpecker, Spectacled Duck, Austral Parakeets, three species of Caracara and the four Black-necked Swans on the lake. We sailed in the evening and goodness did it rain Thursday 21st? Yes it certainly did. The morning viewings were pretty sporadic, but in the afternoon we made up for it with some spectacular sightings. We found that the only way to watch for wildlife was to stand on the next deck up under the lifeboats (for a bit of shelter). There were just so many Black-browed Albatrosses and as for Chilean Skuas – almost ten a penny. One concentrated flock had around 160 Black-browed Albatrosses and 90 Chilean Skuas all trying to get into some sort of rich food source. The amount of sightings certainly made up for the wet day. Thankfully Friday 22nd proved to be a much better day weather wise. In the morning we visited Pope Pius XI Glacier – strange seeing the zodiacs of another ship like bees round the face – I know they were not ‘that’ close, but I still wouldn’t like to be in a small vessel that near to such a huge glacier’s front. Star sightings during the day were probably the Chilean Dolphins, Commerson’s Dolphins and a Green-backed Fire-crown that ‘buzzed’ the upper starboard deck (the only hummingbird species found in the lower Chilean Fjords). A Wilson’s Storm Petrel was found on the back deck at 2am (see ‘ITEM OF PARTICULAR INTEREST 1’ below). And then the weather really did improve with Saturday 23rd being a beautiful day… and it was needed... No doubt about the star sighting for the day with ‘FOUR’ yes ‘4’ Blue Whales seen at close quarters off the starboard side – WOW just STUNNING…… and for those that missed the Green-backed Fire-crown, we had another that came and this time ‘buzzed’ the back deck. Fascinating to see a Black-browed Albatross trying to predate a Magellanic Penguin (well probably whatever it had caught) – every time the penguin came up the albatross chased and landed where the penguin had just risen. Our cruise was almost over - Sunday 24th we arrived in Puerto Montt and many of us visited the ‘Volcan Osorno’ Volcano – quite stunning views with clear skies and loads of wildlife sightings had by all. Chile has had an extremely hot and dry summer and with that they have been plagued with bush fires – we witnessed some of the damage as well as seeing fires burning and smouldering. On our way back towards the town of Puerto Varas on Lago (Lake) Llanquihue, we were lucky to see a snake, about 18 inches long (species not known). However there was someone trying to catch it (and they did) – one of those times where it is probably better not to get involved when in a foreign Country - though it was placed in a jar – one hopes just to look at it, though I could be being a bit naive about it. Monday 25th February we were in Valdivia – more fires very much in evidence. It was a beautiful day and plenty of wildlife sightings had during the course of the day. Star birds were Whimbrel. Red-legged Cormorant and at least two Snowy-crowned (Trudeau’s) Terns. During the evening and shortly after we had left the river/estuary mouth, we had been anchored in, we went through the most superb flocks of literally thousands of Sooty and Pink-footed Shearwaters – viewing was eventually cut off by our sailing into fog. It really was the most spectacular sight (only equalled by the next day when we did it again – see below). Our last day, Tuesday 26th, we spent at Talcahuano. The fog (of last night) was still about for much of the day. As we arrived in the bay in the morning one could not help noticing the ‘strong’ smell of fish (they have a fish processing factory). Not surprising therefore that we were greeted by the sound of gulls – 1,000s and 1,000s of gulls – how would one count them? Well with difficulty I can assure you. Kelp and Franklin’s were the main species, though there were quite a few Brown-hooded Gulls present. It really was a staggering sight – the open areas in and around the harbour had this heavily spotted effect – reminiscent of the worst case scenario of a ‘very bad’ chewing-gum splattered pavement in the dirtiest city imaginable. We sailed that evening for Valparaiso. It wasn’t long before the fog came down, but we were treated ‘again’ to the most fantastic display of Sooty and Pink-footed Shearwaters covering the sea – fantastic stuff.

What a way to end the Cruise – seabirds everywhere – GREAT CRUISE, FANTASTIC SEASON.

Friday 22nd February 2008 at 0200 hours whilst in the Chilean Fjords – S50 48 W074 24 – a Wilson’s Storm Petrel was found on the Lido Deck. I examined the bird noted its weight was 38 grams, the wing length was 146mm to the carpel joint, wing span was 378mm and tail length was 70mm. The bird appeared to be a bird of the year – new ‘soft’ fresh plumage. I took a number of photographs and released the bird at 0830hrs.

Tuesday 5th February 2008. Rio de Janeiro.
BIRDS: Magnificent Frigate Bird; Brown Booby; Neotropic Cormorant; Black Vulture; Feral Pigeon; House Sparrow. MAMMAL: Nil.

Wednesday 6th February 2008. At sea day 1 to Buenos Aires.
BIRDS: Yellow-nosed Albatross; White-chinned Petrel; Spectacled Petrel (5); Cory’s Shearwater; Great Shearwater; Manx Shearwater; Brown Skua; Pomarine Skua. MAMMAL & OTHER WILDLIFE: Whale sp.; Dolphin sp.; Cicada sp.; Flying Fish – 100s

Thursday 7th February 2008. At sea day 2 to Buenos Aires.      
BIRDS: Yellow-nosed Albatross 26+; White-chinned Petrel 7+; Spectacled Petrel 2; Atlantic Petrel 1; Herald Petrel 1: Cory’s Shearwater 262+; Great Shearwater 8; Manx Shearwater 4; Pomarine Skua 4; Thrush sp. (Young bird of year; possibly Austral Thrush – 39 miles from land). MAMMAL & OTHER WILDLIFE: Whale sp. 4; South American Fur Seal 1; Cicada sp.; Dragonfly sp..

Friday 8th February 2008. The River Plate and Buenos Aires
BIRDS: Neotropic Cormorant; Cocoi Heron; Spotted Sandpiper; Chilean Skua; Kelp Gull; Brown-hooded Gull; Picazuro Pigeon; Feral Pigeon; Grey-breasted Martin; Rufous-bellied Thrush; Chalk-browed Mockingbird; House Sparrow. MAMMAL & OTHER WILDLIFE: Cicada sp.

Sunday 10th February 2008. Montevideo
BIRDS: Neotropic Cormorant; Snowy Egret; Feral Goose; White-winged Coot; Kelp Gull; Brown-hooded Gull; South American Tern; Elegant Tern; Southern Lapwing; Monk Parakeet; Feral Pigeon; Grey-breasted Martin; Rufous Hornero; Yellow-billed Cardinal; House Sparrow. MAMMAL & OTHER WILDLIFE; Nil recorded.

Monday 11th February 2008. Day 1 at sea to Falkland Islands
BIRDS: Southern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Yellow-nosed Albatross; Northern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Spectacled Petrel; Atlantic Petrel; Manx Shearwater; Great Shearwater; Cory's Shearwater; Sooty Shearwater; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Arctic Skua (includes a dark phase bird); Pomarine Skua; Brown Skua. MAMMALS AND OTHER WILDLIFE: Sei Whale; Humpback Whale; Minke Whale; Southern Right Whale; Dolphin sp..

Tuesday 12th February 2008. Day 2 at sea to Falkland Islands
BIRDS: Wandering Albatross; Southern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; White-chinned Petrel; Atlantic Petrel; Soft-plumaged Petrel; Great Shearwater; Blue Petrel; Thin-billed Prion; Black-bellied Storm Petrel. MAMMALS AND OTHER WILDLIFE: None Seen.

Wednesday 13th February 2008. Stanley, Falkland Islands.
BIRDS: King Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Magellanic Penguin; Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; Imperial Shag; Rock Shag; Cocoi Heron; Black-crowned Night Heron; Kelp Goose; Upland Goose; Ruddy-headed Goose; Falklands Flightless Steamer Duck; Patagonian Crested Duck; Peregrine Falcon; Turkey Vulture; Red-backed (Variable) Hawk; Southern (Crested) Caracara; Falkland’s Skua; Kelp (Southern Black-backed) Gull; Dolphin Gull; South American Tern; Magellanic Oystercatcher; Long-tailed Meadow-lark; Falkland's Thrush; Black-chinned Siskin; House Sparrow. MAMMALS AND OTHER WILDLIFE: Commerson’s Dolphin; Peale’s Dolphin; South American Sea Lion.

Thursday 14th February 2008. At sea to Half Moon Island.
BIRDS: Wandering Albatross; Southern Royal Albatross; Northern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Northern Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Soft-plumaged Petrel; Cape Petrel; Thin-billed Prion; Antarctic Prion; Wilson’s Storm Petrel. MAMMALS AND OTHER WILDLIFE: Whale sp.

Friday 15th February 2008. Antarctic Sound and Deception Island.
BIRDS: Adelie Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Chinstrap Penguin; Grey-headed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Cape Petrel; Snow Petrel; Southern Fulmar; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Brown Skua; Kelp Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMALS AND OTHER WILDLIFE: Fin Whale; Sei Whale; Humpback Whale; Minke Whale; Killer Whale; Antarctic Fur Seal; Weddell Seal; Crabeater Seal.

Saturday 16th February 2008. Paradise Harbour.
BIRDS: Adelie Penguin; Gentoo Penguin (+ leucistic bird); Chinstrap Penguin; Southern Giant Petrel; Snow Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Brown Skua; South Polar Skua; Kelp Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMALS AND OTHER WILDLIFE: Humpback Whale; Antarctic Fur Seal; Leopard Seal; Southern Elephant Seal.

Sunday 17th February 2008. Lemaire Channel and Dorian Bay, Wiencke Island.
Cruise Furthest South: S65 10.592 W064 07.317  
BIRDS: Adelie Penguin; Gentoo Penguin; Southern Giant Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Antarctic Brown Skua; South Polar Skua; Kelp Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMALS AND OTHER WILDLIFE: Humpback Whale; Fin Whale; Minke Whale; Antarctic Fur Seal; Leopard Seal; Crabeater Seal; Weddell Seal; Southern Elephant Seal.

Monday 18th February 2008. Jougla Point
BIRDS: Chinstrap Penguin; Gentoo Penguin + leucistic chick; Snow Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Antarctic Shag; Snowy Sheathbill; Antarctic Brown Skua; Kelp Gull; Antarctic Tern. MAMMALS AND OTHER WILDLIFE: Humpback Whale; Antarctic Fur Seal.

Tuesday 19th February 2008. Drake Passage.
BIRDS: Wandering Albatross; Black-browed Albatross; Light-mantled Sooty Albatross; Sooty Shearwater; Soft-plumaged Petrel; Thin-billed Prion. MAMMALS AND OTHER WILDLIFE: None seen today.

Wednesday 20th February 2008. Ushuaia.
BIRDS: Great Grebe; Magellanic Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Southern Giant Petrel; Black-necked Swan; Upland Goose; Kelp Goose; Patagonian Flightless Steamer Duck; Flying Steamer Duck; Patagonian Crested Duck; Spectacled Duck; Yellow-billed Pintail; Andian Condor; Chimango Caracara; Southern Caracara; White-throated Caracara; Magellanic Woodpecker; Austral Parakeet; Southern Black-backed (Kelp) Gull; Dolphin Gull; South American Tern; Chilean Skua; Imperial Shag; Rock Shag; Blackish Oystercatcher; Southern Lapwing; Southern House Wren; Austral Thrush; Patagonian Sierra Finch; Bar-winged Cinclodes; Chilean Seaside Cinclodes; Thorn-tailed Rayadito; Rufous-collared Sparrow; House Sparrow. MAMMALS: South American Sea-lion; South American Fur Seal; Rabbit.
 
Thursday 21st February 2008. Chilean Fjords Day One.
BIRDS: Magellanic Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; Magellanic Diving Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Kelp Goose; Patagonian Flightless Steamer Duck; Southern Black-backed (Kelp) Gull; South American Tern; Chilean Skua; Pomarine Skua; Rock Shag; Cinclodes sp.. MAMMALS: Humpback Whale; South American Sea-lion; South American Fur Seal.

Friday 22nd February 2008. Chilean Fjords Day Two.
Details of Wilson’s Storm Petrel: The ‘on-deck’ Wilson’s Storm Petrel was found at 2am – ship position S50.48 W074.24. Successfully released at 8.30am. Age: Juvenile (Euring Code 5). Weight: 38grams. Wing (Maximum Cord): 146mm. Wing span: 378mm. Tail: 70mm.
BIRDS: Magellanic Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; Magellanic Diving Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Kelp Goose; Patagonian Flightless Steamer Duck; Southern Black-backed (Kelp) Gull; South American Tern; Chilean Skua; Imperial Shag; Turkey Vulture; Green-backed Fire-crown. MAMMALS: Commerson’s Dolphin; Chilean Dolphin; South American Sea-lion; South American Fur Seal.
 
Saturday 23rd February 2008. Chilean Fjords Day Three
BIRDS: Magellanic Penguin; Northern Royal Albatross; Black-browed Albatross (1 predating Magellanic Penguin); Salvin’s Albatross; Giant Petrel; White-chinned Petrel; Sooty Shearwater; Pink-footed Shearwater; Imperial Shag; Red-legged Cormorant; Kelp Goose; Chimango Caracara; White-winged Coot; Southern Black-backed (Kelp) Gull; Franklin's Gull; South American Tern; Chilean Skua; Green-backed Fire-crown; Passerine sp.. MAMMALS: Blue Whale (4); Humpback Whale; Peale’s Dolphin; South American Sea-lion; South American Fur Seal.

Sunday 24th February  2008. Puerto Montt.
BIRDS: Black-crowned Night-heron; Snowy Egret; Black-faced Ibis; Imperial Shag; Neotropic Cormorant; Feral Geese; Turkey Vulture; Black Vulture; Chimango Caracara; Southern Caracara; Southern Lapwing; Chilean Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Brown-hooded Gull; Franklin’s Gull; South American Tern; Feral Pigeon; Ringed Kingfisher; Austral Parakeet; Green-backed Fire-crown; Blue and White Swallow; Chilean Swallow; Patagonian Sierra Finch; Austral Thrush; White-crested Elaenia; House Sparrow. MAMMALS AND OTHER LIFE: South American Sea Lion; Fish sp.; Snake sp.; Tadpole sp..

Monday 25th February 2008. Valdivia.
BIRDS: Great Grebe; Black-browed Albatross; Salvin’s Albatross; Sooty Shearwater; Pink-footed Shearwater; Peruvian Booby; Black-faced Ibis; Cattle Egret; Cocoi Heron; Red-legged Cormorant; Neotropic Cormorant; Black-necked Swan; Turkey Vulture; Black Vulture; Chimango Caracara; White-throated Caracara; American Oystercatcher; Southern Lapwing; Whimbrel; White-rumped Sandpiper; Arctic Skua; Chilean Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Brown-hooded Gull; Franklin’s Gull; South American Tern; Snowy-crowned Tern; Dark-bellied Cinclodes; White-crested Eleanor; House Sparrow. MAMMALS AND OTHER LIFE: South American Sea Lion; Lizard sp..

Tuesday  26th February  2008. Talcahuano.
BIRDS: Humboldt Penguin; Black-browed Albatross; Pink-footed Shearwater; Sooty Shearwater; White-chinned Petrel; Peruvian Diving Petrel; Wilson’s Storm Petrel; Peruvian Booby; Black-crowned Night-heron; Stripe-backed Bittern; Peruvian Pelican; Neotropic Cormorant; Black-necked Swan; Plumbeous Rail; Turkey Vulture; Chimango Caracara; Southern Lapwing; Arctic Skua; Southern Black-backed Gull; Brown-hooded Gull; Franklin’s Gull; Elegant Tern; South American Tern; Inca Tern; Feral Pigeon; Chilean Swallow; White-throated Treerunner; Austral Thrush; Common Diuca-Finch; House Sparrow. MAMMALS AND OTHER LIFE: South American Sea Lion.