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One of the excursions offered by the Shore Excursion Office on the Marco Polo is a trip to the National Park at Iguazú, in northern Argentina. This is situated on the boarder with Brazil and Paraguay. With some advanced planning Dick (Captain Dick Taylor our Beachmaster), Annie (my better half) and I decided that at the end of the Antarctic Season we would head up for two nights to see what this World Heritage Site was really like. So after leaving Marco Polo on 24th we headed up to Buenos Aires, stayed overnight in the Dazzler Tower Hotel, San Martin (that is worth noting - excellent hotel) and caught a flight from the domestic airport at just after 7am on 25th. Flight time was 1hr 50min. We had booked into the Sheraton International as we had been strongly advised that one needed to obtain a room in one of the hotels 'inside' the National Park as otherwise one missed a lot of the wildlife, first thing in the morning and also later in the evening. This was good advice and our hotel stay was first rate - superb views of the falls from the front and the forest from the back. We were determined not to miss anything, so having got rid of our gear we headed out and down to the falls - what a change from Ushuaia and Antarctica. The temperatures were in the low to mid 30s and 'very' humid. What a cracking place - probably the most spectacular element being the huge array of tropical butterflies. This is a place that one just 'has to visit' if at all possible. We had had rave reviews before heading up to Iguazú - they did not exaggerate. This is a stunning place. If you are going to South America - go for it, no reservations - and that is knowing that it is hot and humid. Those conditions are small price to pay to see one of the real wonders of the world.
25th to 27th January 2007
The first day (25th) we spent in and around the park. Those trails heading for the falls were well marked, quite a few steps, but also lots of good viewing areas and even a cafe - ice cream and water - useful relief. We had a plan and gradually made or way over to the main centre where we ate a meal - timing was perfect as it started to rain. Now, quite honestly it wasn't worth worrying about as it was so warm and as it is so humid some fresh rain was 'almost' a bonus. Those black skies were spectacular over the forest - rain didn't last long and we then took the narrow guage train back over towards the higher falls. That is an excellent service and was a welcome relief. We had had good views of quite an array of birds, animals, reptiles and insects - identification was slow, but we were getting there. Heading out over the last, of that evenings walks, was particularly spectacular. The river was in spate - so talk about huge volumes of water moving. The walkways get a bit slippery when wet, but it was well worth it with the amount to see. We even saw Anhingas drying their wings and, yes, excellent!! - a Caiman. As to people, well there were a lot - apparently the average number of visitors to the National Park daily is some 4,000. The other particularly moving/special moment was seeing two species of Toucan - first day as well. As you can guess it wasn't a particularly late evening - great day though.
Our second day (26th) we decide to head into the local village - Puerto Iguazú - I had obtained details of a particular garden in the town that was renown for Hummingbirds (20 minute taxi drive). The garden/house is called Jardin de los Picaflores and there is a small entry charge into the garden where one is treated to the most incredible display of hummingbirds feeding at a number of feeders. The lady of the house does have a few publications available and was most helpful in allowing us free access to her garden. To find the premises one just has to log onto: www.surfbirds.com/trip_report.php?id=697. We saw seven species of hummingbird - they are just spectacular and two hours went by very quickly indeed. A quick wander round the town and then an early lunch in Restaurant La Rueda - that was a real find. We sampled the beef and fish - just excellent. It was then back to the National Park and we wandered back into the main Information Centre, then caught the train to one of the stations and had another wander round one of the walks. Another great day.
Our final day (27th) we started early. Dick and I had signed up to a Birdwatching Tour lead by one of the Park's experienced guides. We met Daniel Somay (explorador.expediciones@rainforestevt.com.ar) in the hotel foyer at 6am and were out until after 10am - definitely the right thing to do. We would never have found the habitats that he took us to and the excellent array of tropical birds that he was able to show us - again it was the butterflies that were particularly special and probably the Toucans and the Swallow-tailed Kites that were the icing on the cake. By the time we got back to the hotel there was only time to clean up, pack, check and relax for a short while before heading back to the airport. What a great end to a fantastic season. Iguazú - don't miss it if you ever get the chance; it really is well worth its World Heritage status: JUST MAGIC.
Three Day Wildlife Sightings
BIRDS: Tataupa Tinamou; Olivaceous Cormorant; American Anhinga; Great Egret; Black-crowned Night-heron; Black Vulture; Turkey Vulture; Swallow-tailed Kite; Plumbeous Kite; Roadside Hawk; Crested Caracara; Yellow-headed Caracara; Plumbeous Rail; Blackish Rail; Southern Lapwing; Eared Dove; Ruddy Ground-Dove; White-tipped Dove; White-eyed Parakeet; Reddish-bellied Parakeet; Blue-winged Parrotlet; Squirrel Cuckoo; Greater Ani; Smooth-billed Ani; Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl; Planalto Hermit; Black Jacobin; Black-throated Mango; Glittering-bellied Emerald; Violet-capped Woodnymph; Gilded Hummingbird; Versicoloured Emerald; Surucua Trogon; Green Kingfisher; Chestnut-eared Aracari; Red-breasted Toucan; Toco Toucan; Ochre-collared Piculet; Yellow-fronted Woodpecker; Plain-brown Woodcreeper; Rufous Hornero; Ochre-breasted Foliage-Gleaner; Variable Antshrike; Grey Elaenia; Yellow Tyrannulet; Long-tailed Tyrant; Yellow-browed Tyrant; Cattle Tyrant; Sirystes; Short-crested Flycatcher; Great Kiskadee; Boat-billed Flycatcher; Social Flycatcher; Piratic Flycatcher; Tropical Kingbird; Fork-tailed Flycatcher; Black-tailed Tityra; Black-crowned Tityra; Plush-crested Jay; Grey-breasted Martin; Rough-winged Swallow; House Wren; Rufous-bellied Thrush; Pale-breasted Thrush; Chalk-browed Mockingbird; Red-eyed Vireo; Bananaquit; Blue Dacnis; Violaceous Euphonia; Chestnut-bellied Euphonia; Ruby-crowned Tanager; Guira Tanager; Magpie Tanager; Swallow Tanager; Green-winged Saltator; Red-crested Finch; Lesser Seed-Finch; Saffron Finch; Shiny Cowbird; Red-rumped Cacique; Epaulet Oriole; House Sparrow. MAMMALS: Coati; Cavy Guinea Pig. REPTILES: Tegu Lizard; Tropidurus Lizard; Broad-snouted Caiman. BUTTERFLIES: Eighty-eight; Para Guasu; Red Princess; Crimson Banded Black; Turquoise; Zebra Butterfly; and many more. OTHER INVERTEBRATES ETC.: Cicada and many others including a variety of ant species.